Ever since sailors in the sweltering south Pacific stripped to their T-shirts and James Dean made the plain white T sexy, the popularity of T-shirts has been on the rise. An estimated two billion T-shirts were sold worldwide last year. But according to the Sustainable Cotton Project, it takes one third of a pound of toxic chemicals to produce one T-shirt. If the cotton in every one of those t-shirts was conventionally farmed, that translates to 666,666,667 pounds of toxic chemicals!

The current boom among U.S. consumers for greener products has manufacturers scrambling for eco-friendly fabric options. Some have been around for thousands of years; others are brand new. But green is now big business, so expect your options to expand rapidly.

Organic Cotton

One of the most cultivated crops in the world, cotton leaves a heavy chemical footprint. Cotton cultivation uses about 25 percent of the insecticides in the world and 12 percent of the pesticides, according to the Organic Consumers Association. The United States is second only to China in its cotton production, and is the world’s largest exporter of cotton, sending 40 to 60 percent of its crop abroad. Clearly, the United States has a huge chance to shape the cotton market.

To be sold as organic in the United States, cotton must be grown in soil that has been free of pesticides and chemical fertilizers for at least three years. The finished fabric has a slightly heavier drape than conventional cotton, because the fiber is not stripped of its waxes. The fabric is also stronger than conventionally-grown cotton. Because of the strict standards required for organic cotton, the fabric is still slightly more expensive than conventional cotton. However, expect to see availability increase as the number of eco-conscious consumers grows.

Lyocell/Tencel

This fabric begins from a sustainable source—wood pulp—but its eco-friendliness depends on the handling of chemicals during its manufacturing. Lyocell was first manufactured in 1987 by the British company Courtalds Fibres UK. To make the fabric, cellulose—a.k.a. wood pulp—is treated with chemicals, and then extruded into fibers. Depending on the manufacturer, the solvent used to digest the wood pulp can be toxic; however, about 99 percent of the chemical solvent can be recovered and reused indefinitely.

The resulting fabric is similar to rayon or silk in its softness and drape, and is fully biodegradable. (It can break down in a treatment plant in as little as eight days). The fibers are smoother than those of cotton or wool, making the fabric useful for sensitive skin. Lyocell does not accept dye easily, however, and toxic chemicals may be applied by less reputable manufacturers in order to treat the fabric. The only U.S. manufacturer, Lenzing AG, adheres to strict anti-toxicity and sustainability requirements, and sells its product under the brand name Tencel.

Hemp

The name hemp usually refers to the Cannabis sativa plant, a relative of marijuana that contains too little THC to be useful as a drug. One of the oldest textiles in the world, hemp has only recently been used for wearable fabric. Bits of 6,000-year-old hemp cloth have been found in Asia, and the plant was cultivated in Europe as early as 2000 B.C. For thousands of years, hemp fibers were used for rope making and sailcloth. Treatments to soften it for clothing use—by chemically removing lignin—were developed in the 1980s, according to Mari Kane at HempTraders.com.

The United States banned the domestic cultivation of hemp with the 1937 “Marihuana Tax Act”, but hemp products are still widely available due to illegal farms and imports from Canadian, Mexican and Southern American hemp farms. Some claim the plant is pest-free; this is not the case, but it is highly resistant to insect damage. Proponents point out that, like bamboo, the hemp plant has many other uses besides textiles—food, livestock fodder and building materials.

Hemp fabric is very strong with a linen-like texture, but not quite as soft as some others. However, it softens quite a bit after multiple washings, ageing like denim.

Bamboo

The soft and drapey folds of bamboo fabric coupled with the eco-friendliness of the production process have lead to a huge burst of popularity for the textile. Fast growing—some species can grow almost two feet in one day—and extremely versatile, bamboo has many enthusiasts. Fast-growing bamboo stands can ease effects of deforestation, and the plentiful litter they drop to the forest floor prevents erosion. Truly versatile, bamboo can be used as building material, clothing and food.

However, there are some problems with this apparent wonder fabric. Some bamboo fabric manufacturers use harsh chemicals to get a truly white fabric, lessening the eco-friendliness of the product. Also, most bamboo is grown in Asia, which means that it must be transported long distances to reach the U.S. market—not very carbon light. Thirdly, the popularity of bamboo means that some Asian farmers have slashed and burned native forests to expand their bamboo plantations. Ideally, look for certifications before purchasing bamboo fabric to ensure that it was grown responsibly.

Soy Fabric

Now available at every neighborhood supermarket, soybeans did not gain widespread commercial attention in the U.S. until automobile pioneer Henry Ford became fascinated by their possibilities. Ford began to cultivate large soybean plantations at the Ford factories in Michigan, and in the mid-1930s, the Ford Motor Company introduced soy components and soy fabric upholstery in their vehicles. Ford hired chemists to create the first soy fabric, and often wore a “soybean suit” to publicize the new product.

Unlike Ford’s initial “Azlon” fabric, which was manufactured using a formaldehyde bath, today’s soy fabric is made with a sustainable closed-loop chemical process. The by-product of soybean oil and tofu production is extruded into long silky fibers, which receive dye well. Although it is more expensive than organic cotton, soy fabric has earned the nickname “vegetable cashmere,” so it may be worth the expense.

Modal

Originally developed in the 1930s for industrial use, modal fabric is made from beech trees. A widely quoted statistic claims that modal is 50 percent more absorbent than cotton. The drapey, silky fabric is ideal for formal clothing, bedsheets and underwear.

As with bamboo, lyocell and soy fabrics, the manufacturing process requires pulping and extruding the natural fibers. Once a trademark of the Austrian company Lenzing AG, modal is now made by many companies. Companies such as Bed Bath and Beyond and Victoria’s Secret have incorporated modal into their product lines. As with other extruded fiber fabrics, watch for certifications promising eco-friendly manufacturing.

Whenever buying products that promise to be green, be an alert consumer. Learn about the manufacturing processes and watch for certifications. You can do your part and still sport the clothes you love.